Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Another Successful Carstensz Climb!

Bill called earlier today from the summit of Carstensz Pyramid!

Carstensz expeditions are never easy, and can often be plagued by unecpected challenges that we have little control over. This particular climb was all that and more. We want to really commend our climbers for keeping faith in Bill and in the trip and for being flexible and committed enough to get their opportunities to reach the top. Patience, grit and determination are crucial for any expedition, and these climbers displayed those qualities in exemplary fashion.

Great work, team!!!

You can read about their climb HERE.

Monday, October 12, 2009

Denali Cuisine Cooking Class

Mountain Trip Lead Denali guide Kevin Koprek is teaching a class on Denali Cuisine in Ouray, CO this Saturday. Kevin will instruct participants on the fine art of menu planning, meal preparation and how to handle the nuances of all the logistics of packing for a long expedition like Denali.

For more information or to register, please contact Weehawken Creative Arts HERE.

Bill and the team are at Base Camp!

After some days of delay waiting for a helicopter repair, Bill Allen and our team are finally at Base Camp below Carstensz Pyramid. This trip is never easy, and this particular expedition is living up to that tradition.

Read all the dispatches HERE.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Getting Ready for Carstensz Pyramid Expedition

We are settled back in to our beautiful home of Ophir, Colorado for a couple of weeks, but preparations are on for the upcoming Carstensz Pyramid trip. I am looking forward to going back over for my yearly trip to Indonesia for this adventure. I missed going over last year due to a knee injury that has healed up just fine now. I say it all the time, but it is always an adventure traveling to the remote island of Papua and navigating the logistics and politics that it takes just to get to base camp. This will be my 6th trip to Indonesia, and it makes it something like 10 for Mt Trip. It has been different every time.

This time we are going to be flying in by helicopter from the village of Nabire. It's over an hour flight to base camp from this village over some of the most remote jungle left on the planet. The island of Papua is split in half by the border between Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. The Surinam range runs East to West across the island, and Carstensz Pyramid is the highest peak in the range at just over 16,000 ft. The climb is a one day push from our base camp at a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain.
The climb is a fun outing climbing about 4,000 ft up a limestone peak. Most of the climbing is really pretty straight forward low 5th class climbing with a fixed rope for protection. The real excitement starts when we gain the ridge and need to pass over several gaps along the way to the top. The first of these gaps is by far the biggest, and we will be using a "Tyrolean Traverse" to get across it, instead of rappelling down 20 meters, and climbing back out the other side. The tyrolean is really pretty fun, but it definitely get's your heart beating fast as you look down several thousand feet while suspended by a rope (or two).

This spot is the technical crux of the entire 7 summit journey.

Most of the climbers coming to Carstensz are working towards climbing the highest peak on each continent, these peaks have been dubbed the "7 Summits" It's a great excuse to travel all around this planet to extremely different places for some fun climbing, and incredible cultural experiences.

The culture and people of the island of Papua are some of the most fascinating on the planet. I don't really claim to grasp the complexity of their varied cultures, but the island is home to the most different languages, and tribal groups left in the world. It is truly a sense of stepping back into the stone age when you get into some of the more remote villages, where there first contact with the western world occurred in the last 50 years or so.

This picture was from a small village outside of Wamena in the central mountains of Papua. They put on a bit of a show for us with their ritualized war ceremony. It's the real deal over there, as there are still local tribal wars that break out with some regularity. This is a Dani tribe, one of the largest groups in the highlands.


The Mountain Trip team for this adventure:
1) Ben Swart. South Africa
2) Elsi Bezudinhout. South Africa
3) Ephi Gildor. Aspen, Colorado
4) William Hanlon. Alberta, Canada
5) Chris Davenport (guide). Aspen, Colorado
6) Bill Allen (guide). Ophir, Colorado/Anchorage, Alaksa

We are meeting in Bali in early October for a day or two of surfing fun, and then it's off to Papua!

I'll be posting and updating a trip blog when the trip starts. We're planning to head back over for a couple of trips in March of next year if you are interested in heading over for an adventure of your own.

Cheers,
Bill

Friday, August 28, 2009

Dave Ahrens passes his AMGA Alpine Exam!




Congratulations to guide Dave Ahrens for passing his AMGA Alpine Exam in the Cascades last week. Dave put a lot of time and effort into getting his Alpine certification which involves 3 separate courses and an intensive week long exam.

Good Work Dave!


Friday, July 31, 2009

Dreaming of the next trip...

As we finish putting away the tents and cleaning up the gear here in rainy Anchorage our minds begin to wander and we begin to dream of the next expedition. Maybe one that involves traveling to Bali, hmm... Lucky for us Carstensz Pyramid is next on the list, we're going in October with one or two groups of climbers for this adventure. It is always an adventure traveling to West Papua (formerly Irian Jaya) and getting to base camp is arguably the hardest part of this trip. Others might argue that the Tyrolean Traverse (pictured below) is the hardest part of the climb, but from a guides perspective, this is a much more manageable risk.

We've still got a couple of spots on our October trips.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Our last team of the season reached the summit!

Our last Denali team of the 2009 season reached the summit on a picture perfect, warm and sunny day!

Jacob Schmitz called to say that he was enjoying an amazing from the highest point in north America. The team made good time to the summit and the first rope teams found it so warm that they posed for some shirtless summit shots. Shirtless at 20,2030 feet in Alaska? That's almost unheard of...

Congratulations to all the climbers for their hard work and great effort.

This wraps up our 2009 season. we were able to put 11 out of 14 West Buttress expeditions on the summit, despite a month of horrendous weather in May and early June.

We'll post a 2009 season recap shortly. Please check out all of our expedition dispatches HERE.